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Cape Cod Polish

Sterling silver is a term used to specify that the metal contains at least 925 parts of silver to 75 parts of copper. Pure silver is rarely used, as it is too soft. The term "Sterling" is derived from an English penny, coined in the Middle Ages. "Sterling" became the standard for British coins.

Unfortunately, there is no magic formula for keeping silver bright. Metallurgists have worked for years to produce a stainless silver, but without luck so far. So if you want your silver to look its best you are going to have to give it a reasonable amount of care.

Wash your silver promptly after each use with hot suds. Rinse in hot water and dry immediately. If you follow this procedure, you won't have to polish often. When using your silverware, rotate it in daily use so that the finish will mellow uniformly. Wear Cape Cod® Touch-Up Gloves when setting the table or whenever handling silver items to insure against fingerprints and light tarnish. Silver does not have to be polished each time it is used.

There are several methods of cleaning tarnished silver but hand rubbing with a pre-moistened Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloth is best. The cloths have been impregnated with a very gentle polish in exactly the right amounts. They leave no excess in crevices as pastes or liquids do. To polish your silver, take time to do it carefully. To protect your hands wear gloves if you like. Rub each piece briskly, but not hard, using even, straight strokes. Wipe dry with Cape Cod® Buffing Cloth or soft paper towel. You may wash flatware and other pieces you eat from in a mild detergent after polishing.

Caution should be observed when using acid dips. They ruin some finishes and damage stainless steel knife blades as well as other materials if allowed to come in contact with them. This is because they contain a very strong, corrosive acid. I do not recommend using a "Dip" and other experts heartily agree. But should you use an acid dip wash article immediately with soap and water to remove all traces of the acid or permanent damage to the silver may result.

Dull or satin Finish silver becomes bright after many polishings. There is no satisfactory method of restoring satin finish at home, so it's back to the jeweler's if you want it dull again.

Silver-plated articles should not be confused with solid silver or sterling silver. ln silver plate, a coating of silver has been applied to another metal.

The care of silver plate is the same as for solid silver, except that it should be polished, perhaps, with less energy. Be particularly gentle with plated items, or you may totally remove the thin coating of silver and expose the copper or other metal underneath. Always test on an inconspicuous portion.

Silver, like gold, is chemically inactive. Which means it doesn't oxidize when exposed to air, but its surface tarnishes from exposure to certain gases in the air. Therefore, if air is kept away, the tarnish is diminished.

Other enemies of silver are pollution, perspiration, table salt, eggs, olives, salad dressings, peas, gas, sulfur, vinegar, fruit juices, perfumes and toilet water. Don't let any of these come in contact with silver for long. Sea air and leaking gas tarnish silver very quickly. Watch your fruit and flower bowls, because the acids generated by decaying flowers, leaves and fruits will etch into your silver, causing ugly little pit marks.

Empty silver salt dishes after each use, or the salt will pit them, causing permanent damage. Also, if you use silver candy, nut or serving dishes, wash and dry them thoroughly afterward to remove all possible damaging food residue.

Store polished items in drawers or containers lined with flannel treated with anti-tarnish protection. Do not wrap silver in felt or chamois leather. Both are sources of hydrogen sulfide, a strong tarnish inducer. Never wrap plated silver in newspaper. Printers ink will act in time to remove the plating. Never secure any wrapping with rubber bands. Rubber, a deadly enemy of silver, can corrode it in a few weeks through several layers of paper or flannel. Best not to have rubber in same drawer or container.

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Two parts of copper usually are used to one part of zinc. Oxidation causes brass and copper to darken and lose its luster.

Tarnish on brass and copper can be removed by simply rubbing the item with a Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloth and wiping dry with Cape Cod® Buffing Cloth or soft paper towel. Quickly, you will notice a lovely miffor shine and because of its anti-tarnishing feature you won't have to polish as often.

Heavy corrosion on brass or copper should be removed before polishing.

Try a piece of lemon dipped in salt, or hot vinegar and salt, to remove corrosion from brass. This is an old-fashioned method but one that I find useful when dealing with articles that are difficult to clean. Provided they are not decorated with materials that hot water will damage, they can also be boiled in water containing salt and vinegar. Most of the corrosion will be loosened or removed. You can then finish with a Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloth to restore the desired shine.

Brass andirons and fire tools that have been long neglected may prove to be a tough job, owing to burned-in resins from your fire. You can use fine steel wool dipped in cooking oil, but it will take plenty of time and elbow grease. Easier to handle and very effective is fine emery cloth of the sort used by metalworkers. They are available at hardware stores. Dip the emery cloth in cooking oil and rub in one direction, not round and round, and when it is clean polish it with Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloths.

For antique brass, rub with lemon (mineral) oil and polish softly.

Copper can be given a deep-brown or bronze color by repeated wipings, after thorough cleaning, with boiled linseed oil.

Most museum staffs now prefer that brass pulls and knobs not gleam brightly, but be allowed to tone down to a soft patina. If you want to shine them, remove them from furniture and rub with Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloths (Many old brasses are handmade and too fragile to be removed. In this case try to slip a piece of plastic or aluminum foil between brass and wood to protect the wood while polishing.)

Plated articles should not be confused with solid brass or copper. In brass and copper plated items, a coating has been applied to another metal, usually steel but sometimes white metal (also known as "pot metal".)

One way to determine whether an item is solid brass or copper is to test it with a magnet. If the magnet adheres then the metal is steel that has been plated. If it doesn't adhere there is a good chance it is solid brass or copper unless it is "pot metal." (Scratch the bottom - if there is white under the plate it is not solid.) Be particularly gentle with plated items, or you may totally remove the thin coating and expose the other metal underneath. Always test on an inconspicuous portion.

On the chrome trim of a car, bike or motorcycle periodic applications of car wax can hold corrosion at bay. This is also helpful in the bath on chrome shower heads and nozzles where watermarks are visible. If the chrome is discolored, a light rubbing with a Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloth will restore it.

On pewter, many people prefer to leave a dull gray patina. In the case of low-glow pewter, a soap-and-water bath is the most maintenance its finish ever needs. If you prefer a brighter shine rub with a Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloth .

Pewter is often displayed on oak but shouldn't be stored in a closed cabinet or drawer, because the organic acids in oak or in untreated, unseasoned woods promote pewter deterioration.

If you see stains or discoloration on stainless steel don't be surprised. All it promised was to stain less and not rust. It does not promise non-staining steel. It does stain, no matter what you do.

I have found the best way to keep stainless steel clean is with a white nylon scrub sponge and a little ammonia solution. This should keep stainless steel looking as good as new. If it becomes dull or stained rub in one direction with a Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloth and wipe dry to a finished shine.

Lacquered brass needs only dusting and an occasional washing with luke warm water and mild detergent. Rinse and dry. If the lacquer becomes damaged and tarnish lines begin to show, or if the lacquer is turning dark, it can be removed with acetone or amyl acetate (banana oil). Coated objects can also be stripped with a solution of baking soda and boiling water ( 1 cup soda to 2 gallons boiling water.) Let the article stand in the water until it cools and peel off the lacquer. Before any polish can work, the metal surface must be free of all lacquer.

I do not recommend lacquering metals. If the article lacquered is touched often and develops a scratch it will soon tarnish and leave an unbecoming dark line. Exposed to light, in time, lacquer will darken and eventually have to be removed. It's a job to remove!

I hope these tips will be of help to you in keeping your precious things brilliant.